Milano and West Lombardy – Day 1
If you’ve already decided to visit Italy in 2015 but you’re not sure where to go yet, West Lombardy should go on your short-list. Milano in particular will be the host of this year Universal Exposition (Milano Expo 2015, I’ll soon write a post about this extraordinary and unique opportunity): six months of events across the region that will welcome more than 20 million visitors! The 2015 Expo will be the first Exposition in history to be focused around nutrition, not only in terms of local products and techniques but also for its role towards education and the use of the planet’s resources. I’ve always been very interested in the sustainability and origins of the food we consume and I really hope I’ll be able to attend this occasion! You too should consider a visit to Northern Italy, as West Lombardy has a lot to offer to the informed traveller. Let’s take a closer look at Milano, the capital, and a couple of the other great cities in the area – Monza and Lodi.
Milano (l’è on gran Milan)
Giovanni D’Anzi, who in 1935 wrote music and lyrics of “O mia bela Madunina” – the city’s unofficial anthem – described his beloved hometown with these words: “Tutt el mond a l’è paes, a semm d’accòrd, ma Milan, l’è on gran Milan!” (trad. “It’s a small world, I agree, but Milan is so big!”) He is certainly still right as Milano is the second biggest city in Italy after Rome, with an urban area that is the 5th largest in the EU: more than 5 million people work and live in the Hinterland Milanese. Milano is the true powerhouse of the Italian economy, always divided between Northern Italy’s ancient agricultural traditions and the rich industries of Continental Europe. As the Italian city with the highest average wealth, the most industries and the biggest urban development, Milano may at first feel like a noisy, polluted and crowded mess of tarmac and concrete. That’s because it’s a city that has to be known before being appreciated – does Manchester ring a bell? Even more than the Mancunian city, Milano is a city of fashion and culture: it offers a vast quantity of art. Some of its art is well-known worldwide (The Duomo, Teatro alla Scala, Castello Sforzesco, San Lorenzo, Leonardo da Vinci’s Il Cenacolo, the many paintings by Caravaggio, Botticelli, Michelangelo and Raffaello for example) but most is left a bit hidden, like a precious gem, that one can found in the city’s many galleries, clubs, ancient shops and private collections, often open to the public.
Considered often as an art form, the food now consumed in Milano’s many restaurants is also rich, sometimes even opulent and indulgent. Even a couple of the most famous dishes from the city – the risotto alla milanese and the cotoletta, golden in colour – are made of ‘bling’! The modern and rich cuisine comes, in reality, as a reaction to a very humble past. Milano grew thanks to its agricultural roots and fertile soil, something that is reflected in the typical dishes of the area. Very common in the Milanese culinary tradition is indeed the use of off cuts and offal, wild herbs and simple grains like corn and rice. Cow’s milk cheese is also one of the most used ingredients, with local specialities like Gorgonzola now known worldwide. I’ll have a post soon exploring the great cheeses of Lombardy, they’re some of my favourites!
Mmmmmmmonza (to be read as if it was a passing car!)
Monza is just a few miles away from Milano’s city centre and very much part of the Hinterland Milanese. You’ve certainly heard of Monza because it has one of the most famous tracks in the world – the autodromo di Monza – originally constructed back in 1922, and still known as “the temple of speed” for its long stretches and the Parabolica curve. A legendary circuit that grew in popularity thanks to the passion and emotion of the fans, especially the ones following the Scuderia Ferrari F1 team. A visit to the autodromo is a must but don’t forget the beautiful park that surrounds it: the Villa Reale park, one of the largest enclosed parks in Europe. The Royal Villa of Monza lies on the banks of the Lambro and was originally built in 1780, when Lombardy was part of Austrian Empire, for the Archduke Ferdinand of Austria. Almost a century later, with the new Kingdom of Italy, it became a palace of the Italian Royal Family Savoia. In Monza you can also find the Romanesque-Gothic Duomo, the Cappella Espiatoria – Expiatory Chapel – from the Savoia period and the Arengario, the 14th century palace of the civic commune (in the photo above). The best known typical food product of the area is the Salame Milano. It’s a fairly big salami made exclusively with pork that is seasoned simply with salt, pepper and garlic and doesn’t have an overpowering flavour. You’ll discover soon that Monza’s not just about ‘shiny fast toys driving in circles’ after all!
Lodi
I always thought Lodi was one of those boring cities in the immense Pianura Padana with a big church, a big empty square, some sleepy cafes, hundreds of closed wooden windows, fog and bloody cats everywhere… But it isn’t: Lodi has a lot to offer in terms of art and history – it is around Lodi that most of the famous battles in Northern Italy’s tumultuous history were fought. The food tradition is excellent: you can think of it as an ancient Milanese one, still preserved and treasured as integral part of the city’s culture. Many home-made products, fresh greens, cured meats, smelly cheeses, artisan breads. Lodi is a fascinating place to be: surrounded by early Medieval architecture, placid rivers, rich country colours, deliciously simple hearty food and friendly people. After a while you’ll really feel at home here.
Buon appetito!
Giordano
P.s. If you’ve enjoyed this first part of the journey, don’t miss our second trip to West Lombardy, when we’ll visit the Alps and some of the great Northern Lakes with the cities of Bergamo, Lecco and Como!